Updated: 17 December 2019I recently went on a road trip through central Iran with some friends. We started in Ardakan in Yazd province and made our way down to Kerman province.…
what to do
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Updated: 8 July 2019The last time I spent the night in the desert was in the Atacama in Chile, and the rock formations, volcanos, and moon-like landscape made for an unforgettable…
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Updated: 8 July 2019I’m always surprised by the number of people who completely dismiss Tehran. “It’s polluted, it’s crowded, there’s nothing to see, it’s a tough city.” I was even warned…
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Updated: 8 July 2019The name is comprised of words that normally don’t belong together: Bâgh Muze Zendân-e Qasr. “Garden, Museum, Prison, Castle.” Qasr Prison Museum had long been on my Tehran…
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I have a bucket list of all the things I want to do in Tehran. Of course what usually happens when you live in a city is that you never actually…
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Updated: 8 July 2019One of the best things about Iran is that there are lots of holidays, and I never let one pass without discovering a new place- even if it’s…
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Updated: 27 April 2018For me, District 12 in southern Tehran is the real Tehran. If the rest of the city is black and white, District 12 is in color. And while…
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Updated: 8 July 2019In Iran, tea is life. All day. Every day. It should be tâzeh dam (freshly brewed), lab riz (filled to the brim), lab suz (hot [enough to burn…