Culture Shock in Iran- 11 Things that May Surprise You

Updated: 8 July 2019

I can’t say that culture shock played a significant role in my acclimation period in Iran since it was, after all, a place that I had been visiting since I was a kid. But there were some cultural norms that stood out as unusual, confusing, or even downright funny. They have since become entirely normal for me but may leave a newbie to Iranian culture scratching their head. These are 11 things that may surprise you and things that you should expect to encounter (especially #7). Hopefully, reading this will help cushion the culture shock in Iran. 

There are either 2 kisses or 3 (or a handshake instead)

We all know that traditionally Iranians greet each other with rubusi (the double European air kisses). But is it double or triple? Depends on the person. Maz Jobrani has his own theory about why that may be. In my case, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone in for a third kiss only to be left hanging. The next time, I stop at two and embarrass the other person. And then there are those people who just stick out their hand. When did the handshake become part of Iranian culture? When I was a kid, it was always rubusi. These days, I’ve met so many of my cousins’ friends who shake my hand, saying that maybe I won’t like it if they kiss me. Is it because they know I’m American, or is it an excuse because they don’t want to?

People smoke in restaurants and cafes

Some places only allow smoking in their outdoor seating area, which makes sense. But, unfortunately, there are many places that allow smoking inside, and in those places, it’s like sitting inside a chimney due to people’s chain smoking. I was relieved to see a No Smoking sign once until my friend asked the waiter if he could smoke, and the waiter gave such a strong “of course!” it was as if it was the silliest question he had ever heard!

Men and women are separate on the bus but not the metro

On the bus, men and women sit separately, but it’s not mandatory on the metro. I always see tourists who don’t know this and separate on the metro when they don’t have to. The first and last wagons are reserved for women if they wish to sit there. I personally always prefer to sit in the women’s section if I’m alone. I’m more comfortable there, but, more importantly, it tends to be less crowded. When it comes to the bus, you have to sit separately. Why the bus and not the metro? My guess is that you may have to run to catch your train, in which case you just hop on anywhere. 

Head and hoof soup or brain sandwiches, anyone?

When I was little, my uncle said he wanted to take us out for breakfast. I was super excited about this until I had to wake up early the next day and then go to the restaurant only to be greeted by sheep heads in a plastic basin. Of course, I’m referring to kaleh pâcheh (sheep head and hoof soup). Fans of this bizarre (and smelly, if you ask me) dish will devour it as early as 4 am! Since it’s heavy, it’s typically only eaten for breakfast. 

More recently, I entered a hole in the wall and came face to face with rows of sheep brains. After vomiting a little in my mouth, I quickly scanned the sandwich menu- jambon, kâlbâs (bologna), sosis (sausage), maghz (brain)… “Don’t you have any falafel?” I asked, mildly annoyed because I was starving. And every last person in that establishment looked at me as if I had landed from another planet. To be honest, they were right to give me the stink eye. Why did I bother asking?

So, yah, don’t be surprised by such sights. Or by jigaraki, places where they serve grilled skewers of liver, kidney, and heart. These foods are considered delicacies in Iran. If Andrew Zimmern ever came here, these are the things he’d eat. And he’d probably love them, too. 

Instead of change, they’ll give you gum

Next time you buy something at the store and pay cash, don’t be surprised if they give you back part of the change in gum. Because, really, who has coins and small bills anymore these days? The only people who might have them are taxi drivers, but half the time, even they complain about no change (which is why there are apps like PhonePay and Toman to pay your taxi fare). And it’s not just gum you’ll get back. Sometimes is a fun-size chocolate bar or band-aids (which I actually find quite useful!). I even got a DVD once which confused me because I had gotten back the correct change. Maybe he was trying to get rid of them. 

People use their debit cards for everything

I’ve actually seen people buy a 1,000-toman bottle of water with their debit card. And this goes back to the change thing. The customer doesn’t have small bills, the salesman doesn’t have change, so the solution? Kart bekesh! (Swipe your card!) These days, even metro vendors have a kart-khân (card reader) so there’s no excuse for not buying anything. One time when a taxi driver didn’t have change or any apps for me to pay my fare, she whipped out a kart-khân, and I swiped my card to pay a whopping 1,800 toman. There have been countless instances where I’ve tried to pay cash at a restaurant only to be asked to pay by debit card. In fact, I’m so used to hearing “Mishe kart bekeshid?” (Can you swipe your card?) that I was caught completely off guard when the guy at a restaurant in Kish asked me to pay at least part of the bill in cash. I assured him I had every intention of paying all of it in cash. 

Iranians yell out their PIN number

This is one that used to make me gasp in the beginning, too. I mean, there was an entire Seinfeld episode about keeping your code a secret! Of course, I quickly learned that you can’t do anything with the card number and no PIN. On top of that, you have different PIN numbers depending on whether you’re purchasing something in person or online. And so, khâhi nashavi rosvâ hamrange jamâat sho- when in Rome (Tehran), do as the Romans (Tehranis)… and I am now also guilty of freely shouting out my PIN number. But I didn’t stop there. Like a true Iranian, I’ve also been known to take a picture of my debit card and send it to people on messaging apps when I need to get paid.

My friends and family back home still don’t get this one. And truth be told, the American in me wondered- what if someone hears my PIN number and then follows me outside and mugs me? And just as quickly, I scoffed as I thought, “Oh how American of me to think such a thought!” I once saw a guy too lazy to get out of his car and order takeout, so when the delivery guy came back, the lazy guy called him over, told him his order, and gave him his debit card and PIN number. Crazy? Yes. But I somehow see it as a testament to the safety and trust here. Don’t get me wrong, there are always going to be some bad apples. Just recently, a friend sent me a video of a guy who had been arrested for stealing people’s money after they voluntarily gave him their PIN. 

And nowadays, they are actually encouraging people not to do this anymore. More and more, people will turn the keypad over to you to enter your PIN in yourself, and many places even have a separate keypad to enter your PIN so you don’t have to say it. And if they don’t, you can always tell them you’d rather do it yourself. 

Currency problems- rial or toman?

This drives tourists crazy. The official currency is the rial, but people speak and write prices in toman. To get the toman amount, take one zero off the rial (i.e. 100,000 rial = 10,000 toman). Sounds simple, but it can be confusing. And I know because it’s just as confusing for me to convert from toman to rial for my foreign friends here. I recently explained this concept to a Brazilian tourist at Golestan Palace who couldn’t quite wrap his head around it. I think he thought he was getting ripped off. And then when he got it, he excitedly exclaimed, “The currency in Brazil is also called the ‘real’!” 

It used to be that prices were always written in rial, but these days, many places write in toman. And Iranians are so used to speaking in toman that they’ll forget to convert for foreigners. Between themselves, they don’t even bother saying “thousand.” Ten toman is automatically understood to mean 10,000 toman (depending on the context, of course, because it could also mean 10 million). If you have any doubts, make your life easy and ask for the amount in rial.   

Ghâbel nadâre

If you’ve been to Iran or have Iranian friends (or even been with My Persian Corner for a while), you probably know all about this one already. But those new to Iranian culture may be in for a surprise when they see that Iranians refuse to take money the first time. Sometimes even the second or third time. “Ghâbel nadâre,” they say. “It’s not worthy of you. Be my guest.” In rare instances, they mean it. But the vast majority of the time, it’s pure BS. Just last night, the waiter swiped my card, asked for my PIN, and only after I gave it to him (yes, again I gave it to him) did he said, “Ghâbeletuno nadâsht!” Mhmm, buddy, just give me the receipt. 

There are lots of holidays

You blink, and there’s a holiday. 27 official days off to be exact. I’ve become spoiled. But it does make sightseeing a bit harder because you may need to check in advance if the place is open or not.

Dinner is late

Like 9 or even 10pm. People will casually stroll into a restaurant as late as 11! I eat early (by Iranian standards), and I’ve gone out with friends at 7pm when I’m ready to order dinner, and they’ll all get an asruneh (afternoon snack). “Oh, I’m just gonna order a [big] asruneh and not eat dinner,” I say. And no more explanation needed. 

Over to you- what did you experience in Iran (or elsewhere) that gave you a bout of culture shock?

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