A Walking Tour of Old Town Ardakan- By Day & By Night

It’s hard to believe that it was this very week last year that I went on my road trip through central Iran. Time flies, yes, but that’s not what I mean. After that trip (ok, starting about a week before), everything steadily went downhill. It was one piece of bad news after another, all eventually culminating in a pandemic. Looking back, it was such a different world back then. Traveling isn’t the same anymore. Even just exploring Tehran isn’t the same. 

So what do we do? We remember the good days and keep plowing on with the certitude that they will return. And in the meantime, we do all we can to see the positives (no matter how small they may seem) every single day. 

I’ve been wanting to post these pictures for some time now, so I figured what better time than the one-year anniversary! Perhaps they’ll serve as a bit of travel bucket list inspiration for when things get back up and running again. For now, let’s become armchair travelers and explore Ardakan’s historic quarter (and also remember all the hospitality from this wonderful town) during the bright daylight and the spooky midnight hours. 

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At the risk of sounding like a cliche, old town Ardakan is like something straight out of 1,001 Nights. It felt like entering a portal and being instantly swept into the past. I was overcome with a sense of serenity as if someone picked me up and gently placed me within the confines of the protective mud-brick walls, safe from the chaos of the outside world.

I arrived in Ardakan’s historic district in the evening, and for the first few days, all I really saw of it was in the evening or at night since I was out visiting surrounding areas during the day. It wasn’t until the last day, after I had fully gotten my fix of this quarter in the dark, that I decided to set out in the morning.

They say everything looks different in the light of day, and I couldn’t agree more. Dark, creepy corners seemed harmless in the daylight. But both times were so charming that I couldn’t (and still can’t) decide which one I liked more: old town Ardakan by day, illuminated by the sun which painted shadows in the arched alleyways and offered enchanting rooftop views, or old town Ardakan by night, glowing with in-ground lights that created a sense of eerie mystery. As you’ll soon see, I had some trouble narrowing down my photo selections. But it doesn’t seem like we’re going anywhere for a while, so I say the more the better!

Ardakan by day

Windcatchers

One of the major features you’ll notice in Ardakan (and other desert towns like Yazd and Qeshm for that matter ) is the bâdgir, or windcatcher. This traditional architectural element creates natural ventilation. Think of it as an ancient air-conditioning system. While they often allow ventilation on all sides, most of the ones in Ardakan are open from one side only and face the same direction.

Ardakan by night

Darband

Another common feature throughout old town Ardakan is darband. These are essentially private alleys constructed so that residents can get to their homes from an alternative route, like a short-cut. Incidentally, they are super cozy and fun to walk through because you don’t know where you’ll come out on the other side.

One of the more interesting finds of the midnight walk was this bottle of salt hanging above a door. The handicraft is woven with the empty shells of espand, which is commonly burned in Iran to avoid being jinxed. It’s also used as home decor and believed to protect against the evil eye. But the bottle of salt was new for me. I can only assume the residents here are extra superstitious.

Judging by the number of pictures, it would appear that I subconsciously favored the midnight version of Ardakan. Which one did you prefer?

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