5 Foods You Must Eat in Iran in the Winter

There are three things to know about Iranian street food: it’s not the typical “street food” you might think of, it’s [mostly] healthy, and it’s seasonal. And when winter comes around, there are a few treats you won’t want to miss. Let’s dive into 5 delicious foods you have to try in Iran during the winter months.  

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Âsh reshteh

This healthy, hearty, vegetarian-friendly dish is a thick soup made with noodles, various herbs, and legumes, and topped with a mixture of garlic and onions fried with dried mint. It’s so beloved it’s hardly a wonder that so many Persian idioms come from it. Iranians swear that the make or break of âsh all lies in the quality of the kashk, a salty, fermented whey product swirled on top. (And it’s sort of true. Bad kashk can really ruin an otherwise fantastic âsh.) The northern hiking trails in Tehran- Darband, Darakeh, and Tochal- are particularly good spots to warm up with a bowl (and recharge) during the frigid winter months. Ask for it without kashk to make it vegan. 

Laboo

I absolutely adore laboo (beets). Spying the first beet cart of the colder months makes my heart beam with joy as I beeline toward the vendor. You may not find this lowly root vegetable particularly alluring, but in Iran, it’s given a lot of love. Steaming-hot, boiled beets are stacked according to size and cut up into bite-sized pieces so you can enjoy them right there on the street or share them back home.

Side note: Laboo’s cousin, shalgham (turnip), also makes a prominent appearance in the winter as it helps defend and protect against colds and viruses. When I caught a mild cold, I went to the grocery store just for shalgham. As it turned out, another girl had the same idea. “I don’t like them. But it’s that time,” she smiled. When I told a friend I couldn’t hang out because I was feeling a bit under the weather, the response made me laugh. “Eat lots of shalgham.” Not only had I done that, but I had also inhaled the steam while it was cooking on the stove. Now that’s the real OG move! But before I digress too much… Though you won’t really find turnips as street food, you should try them during the winter months. Top them with some salt and thyme powder, and you’re good to go!

Bâghâli pokhte

Sitting right next to the beets are bâghâli (boiled fava beans), so grab some of them, too, while you’re at it. These are topped with vinegar and golpar (Persian hogweed). Huddle around with your friends as you share a bowl, eating them like only a true Iranian would- with one hand: peel back the black line with your teeth, pop the soft center in your mouth, and toss the thick skin. 

Halim

Full disclosure: I’ve never been a fan of halim/haleem, and I think I mostly owe that to the fact that I could never get over the combination of ingredients. This incredibly labor-intensive breakfast favorite of many has an oatmeal-like consistency and is made with lamb (or another meat) and wheat and topped with butter, cinnamon, and sugar. I know, right? Traditionally, halim is painstakingly stirred into the wee hours so it’s ready for hungry early birds. Commonly eaten in the winter or during the fasting month of Ramadan, you can usually try this one at places that also serve âsh.  

Ferni

Ferni (or fereni) is an often overlooked and totally underrated traditional dessert. I say dessert because I think that’s what it technically is, but I associate it with breakfast since it’s something my mom always used to make for us in the fall and winter when we were growing up. This warm pudding is made with rice flour, milk, sugar, and rosewater, and topped with cinnamon. I almost forgot about this one myself until one day I saw a man in front of me at the grocery store with two items- rice flour and milk. As soon as I got home, I made myself some ferni (easily substituting plant milk). I haven’t seen ferni in too many places in Tehran (or else it’s been cold ferni), but I’ve come across it in other cities across Iran.

In fact, one of my best memories is from several years back when I went for an early winter morning walk with my mom and aunts in Neyshabur. About 20 minutes in, we gave up on our walk and opted for ferni dâgh (hot ferni) with a side of noon ghandi (sweet bread) instead. And to this day, that breakfast chasbid (hit the spot) like no other!

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